travel

emergency medicine

A few months ago, while I was clearing out a storage room in a lonely warehouse building, a friend called me on my cell phone in tears. She told me of the overwhelming fear and anxiety she was feeling about a trip she was to embark upon in a few hours, that held many potentially difficult situations.

Standing in a storage room amidst broken cardboard boxes and forgotten stuff, I listened and talked and listened, as my friend’s tears gradually subsided. “But, how will I make it through?” she asked. “What will I do if I start to panic on the long flight, or when I am in another time zone?”

I wondered what I could offer right then and there? What would be totally portable, that she could look at any time she needed to, to remind her of other ways of seeing things, the opposite of fear and sadness?

I found myself saying: “Get a pen. Now draw a heart in the palm of your hand. read more…

a jar of air + memory

Tara Mann

We were trying to figure out what to bring back from a trip to a place we loved, something that would be able to remind us in a FLASH what it was like. Pamela Hovland suggested we bring back a jar full of its beautiful air, so we did, capturing it in a small canning jar. Back at home, we find that jar hold holds more than the air; it seems to hold the very place in our hearts. read more…

how to grind nuts without a food processor (moroccan-style)

Our friend Peggy Markel just got back from months of Culinary Adventures – her own, and facilitating those of the intrepid guests that embark on her “underground” tours of Tuscany, Elba, Sicily, Morocco. Peggy seems to know everybody, that is, anybody who is seriously into food in all the places she travels. She has a nose and and eye and an openness to find her way into the heart of a place, through its food. We love her reports on her Facebook page and on her blog, often in the form of teeny unedited videos that offer a glimpse into the rest of the world. (It was Peggy who sent us the clip of the Indian Water Music and the Sardinian Women Singing while they washed dishes.). Here is one of a Moroccan cook named Baijah crushing almonds for a traditional chicken pastilla at Jnan Tamsna in Marrakech, Morocco (one stop on Peggy’s Moroccan Adventure). Baijah just folds the almonds into a clean piece of cloth (or a dish towel) and whacks them with a rolling pin, a method she refers to as the “Berber food processor”.

It is a perfect strategy for when you’re staying in a bare-bones kitchen (like a summer rental) and have big ideas. read more…

impromptu drowned cell phone rescue (+ life lesson)

Ubergizmo

We got an email from Manny Howard this morning about an improvised save for water-logged digital appliances (and a  great general approach to take when the #$%!! is hitting the fan). We know Manny to be prone to minor disasters from his book My Empire of Dirt: How One Man Turned His Big-City Backyard into a Farm and love him for it, because he so forthrightly throws himself into things (as, it seems, do his kids):

“kids doused my iPhone with water the day before a 5-day work trip to southern France.

In a panic I called up my buddy Norman Vanamee (my best bud who I always turn to him for automotive clunker advice)…

…So the screen’s all mottled in some places, faded completely in others, the apps keep switching without my input. it shuts off and then comes back on occasionally. clearly digital cardiac arrest.

I asked Norm: So, do I go to apple store buy new phone in case this one dies while i’m on the road in France?

No way, he says, read more…

italy for the gourmet traveler (+how to hack a guidebook)

In 1996, when I was about to take an extended trip to Italy, Fred Plotkin’s Italy for the Gourmet Traveler was my guide. Plotkin, who had been traveling in Italy since 1973, forged the guide from years of passionate traveling, living and eating there – over 700 pages crammed with personal notations and insider views on wonderful restaurants, trattorias, coffee bars, farms, cooking schools, festivals, and markets. He is at his best with small towns and off-the-beaten path places, like the Mushroom Market in Trentino…

“In season this is the place to buy freshly picked mushrooms. If you have any fears, you can look for the police officer who is the designated mycologist on duty. This piazza also has orderly stands selling cheese, meats, fruits, vegetables, beans, honeys, and flowers.”

In Plotkin’s guide, you will find essential bits of history and architecture and opera, as well as terrific, insightful writing. His chapter on Napoli begins:

“Fasten your seat belts! One can stand absolutely still in Napoli and feel like a spinning top.”

The guide has been so good and so reliable that it has gone through several printings; an updated edition was just published by Kyle Books. Like its predecessors, it suffers from only one problem: it is heavy, a 3-pound brick of solid information, particularly daunting in these times of overweight-luggage fees. Unwilling to travel Italy without Fred’s book, I improvised a solution (and figured out how to hack a guidebook):  read more…

foraging for ‘REAL’: ramps etc with recipe

lauriesmithphoto.com

lauriesmithphoto.com

This weekend, I will take a few days off to go down to West Virginia to the Ramp Supper in Helvetia, West Virginia, a feast served family style in the community hall by the Farm Women’s Association – ham, beans, cornbread, slaw, applesauce, hash browns, ramps raw and cooked. Depending on the weather, the raw ramps – like a lily of the valley with a scallion bulb -  could range from fiercely peppery to sweetly pungent riffs on garlic-leek-shallot-chive. Fried with rendered bacon in an iron skillet, they melt into garlicy greens, their flavors deeply mellowed. The supper is followed at dusk by a square dance that rocks the hall for hours with fiddle music whose wild strains reverberate throughout the valley. These people mean it. The yearly ramp supper is in celebration of the first living thing to poke through the ground in spring and the end of a long, harsh winter. read more…

sally on finland at the atlantic food blog

Sally Schneider

Sally Schneider

Aside from endless design ideas, last summer’s trip to Finland has yielded a several part series at Atlanic Onlines’ Food Blog, starting today. The Atlantic posts will be ongoing for the next few weeks and will be mostly food-centric – woven through with cool design –  until we get to the home of a Finnish farmer and an island shack that will knock you out…(we’ll post those stories here as well). In the meantime here are some examples of Finland’s wonderful everyday design, starting with the Alvar Aalto stools stacked by a snack stand in Helsinki’s outdoor market by the port, set up under bright orange-red tents.. read more…

spring is coming (really)!

Sally Schneider

Sally Schneider

I was in Savonlinna, Finland last summer poking around at the ancient town where there is a huge opera festival each summer inside a castle that was built in 1475. I spotted this flower arrangement in the market…

(If you think we’ve got a long winter…)

christophe niemann map: my (your) way

Christophe Niemann

Christophe Niemann

….One of Christophe Niemann’s oddly illuminating maps, from his Abstract City blog in the N.Y.Times.

the benefits of wandering (+ multi-use notecards)

colds-walkabout-1

Constance Old sent this account of her unexpected walkabout through Philadelphia, when she followed one thing after another, after another, after another…to discover a neighborhood full of food and cool people doing their thing. It reminded us how hunger and curiosity can cause the road to open up in the most unexpected way. And how plain old wandering is an essential element in a creative life…(not to mention all the things you can use a well-designed notecard for)….

” I went down to Philadelphia a couple of weeks ago to drop off work at Da Vinci Art Alliance at S. 6th and Catharine Streets. Although I grew up in Philadelphia, I have not spent much time there in the past twenty years. I had heard from my daughter’s twenty-something drum teacher from Brooklyn that Philadelphia is called the “sixth borough” at the moment because apparently there is a pretty happening music scene there.

Anyway, after I dropped off the work, I ambled along Catharine Street and immediately happened upon what looked like a gem of a restaurant: Little Fish. I went in and discovered that Little Fish holds about 16 people and serves the most delicious, you guessed it, fish. When I asked for a piece of paper to record the delicious food I had eaten, I was presented with the lovely note card (see photo), which is the same paper on which they write out the menu for the night. read more…

fasnacht: wild + creative antidote for winter

Sally Schneider

Sally Schneider

This Saturday is Fasnacht, a wildly pagan, pre-Lenten festival that takes place in Helvetia, a tiny town deep in the West Virginia Appalachians that was settled by the Swiss in the 1860′s. It is like Mardi Gras in a cold snowy land: revelers parade through the town wearing terrifying homemade masks and carrying lanterns lit by candles. They they dance for hours to the strains of fiddle music under an effigy of Old Man Winter, hung from the rafters of the community hall. At midnight Old Man Winter  - made of pine boughs and old clothes – is thrown onto a roaring bonfire and burned, and his demise is celebrated throughout the night.

For many, Fasnacht is the culmination of months of crafting their costume out of paper mache and elaborate wire constructions, fueled, in part, by the chance to compete with their extraordinarily inventive peers, and for a prize. For others, their costume is impromptu, fashioned at the last minute from whatever is at-hand that will transform them for the night, as they hide their true selves to become, for a few liberating hours, someone else… read more…

sing LOUD! like they do in sardinia

Peggy Markel, an intrepid and inspired seeker (and facilitator) of culinary and cultural adventures,  recently sent us this one-minute video. She was on a scouting trip at San Francesco di Lula in Sardinia and followed the singing she heard coming from the church rectory’s kitchen. Local women were washing dishes and one was singing in dialect, refusing to be shushed even when admonished NOT to sing while Peggy was filming. Without a trace of embarrassment, she continued to sing, LOUD, as though the singing fueled her work.

Here’s what Peggy wrote on her blog: read more…

duct tape repair of bear-ravaged plane

airplane-12

We don’t know where we would be without duct tape, the ultimate solution for many a seeming disaster. Just when we think we’ve imagined its possibilities, a friend emailed an article from the South Africa Times’ about a bush pilot in Alaska who neglected to clean his 1958 Piper Cub after a long fishing trip. The fishy aroma attracted a grizzly bear who chewed and clawed the wood-and-fabric plane apart (as well as its tires) trying to find the source of the delicious smell, then went on its way.

The resourceful pilot radioed for three cases of duct tape, rolls of cellophane and two new tires to be flown in so he could repair the plane and and fly home, which he did; witness the before-and-after pictures!

Duct tape is one of those everyday items we don’t think about much, but it has quite a story, read more…

(bowls of) water music from India

My friend Peggy Markel, who designs unique food and culture adventures, recently went on a scouting trip in Rajasthan India. She traveled from luxurious palaces to rustic countryside, taking in its monumental contrasts.

For Peggy, food is always about context, and this little film shows a fragment of the culture she was exploring, as revealing as its food, and as essential to understanding it.

Here is the story Peggy told me of how she stumbled on these street musicians and their improvised instrument made of bowls of water. read more…

travel the known universe

The Known Universe is an amazing video that takes you from the Himalayas to the far reaches of space, to experience the afterglow of Big Bang, constellations, planets, quasars, the Milky Way, our solar system, and more…

It is compiled from the Digital Universe Atlas, a four-dimensional map of the universe maintained by the American Museum of Natural History, so it is all astronomically accurate. It is mind-expanding and beautiful, especially viewed full-screen.

It is one of the treasures I’ve found during the past year on kottke.org, one of my favorite blogs. I stop by daily to see what Jason Kottke has found, and although I may pass several posts by, just scanning the titles opens my view until I hit BIG with the likes of The Known Universe.

So this is a shout-out:  Thanks a million Kottke!